Well there's cases to be made for either way. The reasoning for doing it this way is that it requires no disassembly so is easiest for the novice. It's also arguably closer to actual usage scenarios. Any feedback in the filament path to the nozzle will be present and accounted for. By using a high temp and slow extrude there shouldn't be any pressure feedback however, so that's taken care of. To deal with that you'd need to tune non linear extrusion.
As it says in step 6, you’d only expect a negative value for nozzle contact probes which would press into the bed slightly in order to trigger. Pressing into the bed would mean that the trigger height is below the Z0 point of the bed surface.
Hi, may I ask that you repost your issue on the support forums? It’s far easier there and I would need to see your config files to really be able to help.
That may indicate that the distance of the homing move in your home x file isn’t long enough. Did you use the same X Y build area as specified in the guide? 235 I believe?
There’s nothing stopping you from printing faster than 60mm/s even with the settings shown here. The melt rate will start to come into play eventually, but at a 0.4 extrusion width and 0.2 layer height you can probably hit 100mm/s provided the part being printed is large enough. Increasing the acceleration from 500mm/s^2 to 1000mm/s^2 should be within reason as well. Though surface quality may take a hit. To work around that you could use the acceleration control functionality of the slicer to specify different acceleration values for perimeters and infill. Get the best of both worlds.
As I mention in the motors tab step below, some of the speeds have been modified from the Ender 3 Marlin defaults to better suit common RepRapFirmware settings. Particularly the E and Z axis speeds, acceleration, and jerk values. The Marlin defaults are very low and can have a negative impact when using things like Pressure Advance and Mesh Compensation.
The values chosen are intended to provide a good print quality and to stay close to the stock values. It’s a starting point to work from. There is a larger tuning guide in the works that goes through identifying the speed limits of the printer both mechanical and thermal.
Yes, most likely they are spinning a bit slower. Think of the PWM frequency as how often full power is applied to the fans. So with 20hz that means full power is applied 20 times a second. So the fan blades may not be accelerated to their full speed with that low of a driving time applied. You’d need a tachometer to measure the real fan speed to compare.
Whether or not this is enough to keep the hotend cold zone cool enough is a matter for testing. From my admittedly short time with it thus far it does seem to be fine. Keep in mind that people often replace the hotend fan with silent Noctua fans that don’t push as much air either, though they are also more efficient fans to begin with.
So in the end, it’s up to you what frequency you use. It’s a balance between noise and cooling power. You can get a sense of how much air is being moved by just feeling it. I found that I couldn’t tell the difference between 60hz and 200hz for air movement but the noise difference was considerable.
You can also add a B parameter to the m106 fan command for the part cooling fan to make it spin at full speed to start.
Each fan is different. 20hz worked ok for me. It was quiter for sure, maybe a bit slower. 200hz was much louder for me. I thought the trade off was worth it.
Well there's cases to be made for either way. The reasoning for doing it this way is that it requires no disassembly so is easiest for the novice. It's also arguably closer to actual usage scenarios. Any feedback in the filament path to the nozzle will be present and accounted for. By using a high temp and slow extrude there shouldn't be any pressure feedback however, so that's taken care of. To deal with that you'd need to tune non linear extrusion.
Thanks for posting an alternative.
As it says in step 6, you’d only expect a negative value for nozzle contact probes which would press into the bed slightly in order to trigger. Pressing into the bed would mean that the trigger height is below the Z0 point of the bed surface.
Hi, may I ask that you repost your issue on the support forums? It’s far easier there and I would need to see your config files to really be able to help.
The photo has been corrected. Thanks.
That may indicate that the distance of the homing move in your home x file isn’t long enough. Did you use the same X Y build area as specified in the guide? 235 I believe?
There’s nothing stopping you from printing faster than 60mm/s even with the settings shown here. The melt rate will start to come into play eventually, but at a 0.4 extrusion width and 0.2 layer height you can probably hit 100mm/s provided the part being printed is large enough. Increasing the acceleration from 500mm/s^2 to 1000mm/s^2 should be within reason as well. Though surface quality may take a hit. To work around that you could use the acceleration control functionality of the slicer to specify different acceleration values for perimeters and infill. Get the best of both worlds.
As I mention in the motors tab step below, some of the speeds have been modified from the Ender 3 Marlin defaults to better suit common RepRapFirmware settings. Particularly the E and Z axis speeds, acceleration, and jerk values. The Marlin defaults are very low and can have a negative impact when using things like Pressure Advance and Mesh Compensation.
The values chosen are intended to provide a good print quality and to stay close to the stock values. It’s a starting point to work from. There is a larger tuning guide in the works that goes through identifying the speed limits of the printer both mechanical and thermal.
Yes, most likely they are spinning a bit slower. Think of the PWM frequency as how often full power is applied to the fans. So with 20hz that means full power is applied 20 times a second. So the fan blades may not be accelerated to their full speed with that low of a driving time applied. You’d need a tachometer to measure the real fan speed to compare.
Whether or not this is enough to keep the hotend cold zone cool enough is a matter for testing. From my admittedly short time with it thus far it does seem to be fine. Keep in mind that people often replace the hotend fan with silent Noctua fans that don’t push as much air either, though they are also more efficient fans to begin with.
So in the end, it’s up to you what frequency you use. It’s a balance between noise and cooling power. You can get a sense of how much air is being moved by just feeling it. I found that I couldn’t tell the difference between 60hz and 200hz for air movement but the noise difference was considerable.
Good eye. There is a list of photos that need to be retaken and a few that will have some annotation added to them. Thanks for the feedback.
Try 200hz or more.
You can also add a B parameter to the m106 fan command for the part cooling fan to make it spin at full speed to start.
Each fan is different. 20hz worked ok for me. It was quiter for sure, maybe a bit slower. 200hz was much louder for me. I thought the trade off was worth it.
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