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[title] Leveling the BedHeater Tuning
[* black] Every successful print starts with a good first layer. There are two factors that go into a good first layer. A clean and level print surface, and an accurate extrusion flow rate. We will address flow rate in the followingHeater tuning guide. But first we must mechanically levelallows RepRapFirmware to find the bed usingideal parameters for the 4 adjustment screws onheater model, allowing for quick heat up times, and stable temperatures, with little overshoot. For full details, see: [[Tuning the bed.heater temperature control]]
[* black] This canEnsure the test is started with the heaters at room temperature. Ideally this should be done with no filament loaded. For most accurate results, set the printer turned off or on. It can be easier when powered off and you can easily move the X and Y axis by hand. Just make sure notpart cooling fan speed to move them too quickly.
[* black] Start by turning all four leveling screws so that
match normal print fan speeds. For the spring is compressedEnder 3 and the bed is farthest away from the nozzle.PLA that would be 75-100%
[* black] Now withNext send M303 H1 S210 to start the Z axis atheater tuning process for the lowest point of travel movehot end. Wait for the X axis all the wayprocess to complete. It should only take a few minutes. Save the left and the Y axisresults by sending M500 so that the bed is all the waythey are loaded automatically at startup.
[* black] If you followed
the front. The nozzleconfiguration guide, automatic loading of the config-override file should be atenabled. If you get an error message saying otherwise, add M501 to the back-left corner.end of config.g
[* black] TurnNext tune the leveling knob atbed heater by sending M303 H0 S60. Wait for the back-left corner untilprocess to complete, and once again, save the results by sending M500. Note that bed raisesheater may take considerably longer due to increased heat up and just touches the nozzle. You can use a piece of paper to judge this, or just your eyeballcool down time.
[* black] Now move to all 4 corners and doThe temperatures chosen reflect the same somost common temperatures used for printing PLA on the Ender 3. If you plan to print with other filaments that require hotter temperatures, you can re-tune with those. However, the nozzle is just touchingresults of the bedtuning at all 4 cornersthese lower temperatures will still be valid over a fairly wide range of temperatures.
[* black] Repeat this step a few times soAlso keep in mind that the tension onstock Ender 3 Pro has a PTFE tube in the paper underhot end which should not be exposed to temperatures above 240c due to the nozzle feels aboutfoul smell released. And the same soheated bed uses a magnetic surface which should not be exposed to temperatures above 80c due to the damage it can just start to slidecause the magnets.
[* black] This is justPID tuning should be redone whenever a first attempt at levelingmajor modification is done to the hot end or bed heater, such as installing or removing a silicone heater block sock, or changing the part cooling fan, or even if the ambient temperature of the room the printer is in changes from season to get it close enough to successfully finish calibrationseason.
[title] Leveling the BedHeater Tuning
[* black] Every successful print starts with a good first layer. There are two factors that go into a good first layer. A clean and level print surface, and an accurate extrusion flow rate. We will address flow rate in the followingHeater tuning guide. But first we must mechanically levelallows RepRapFirmware to find the bed usingideal parameters for the 4 adjustment screws onheater model, allowing for quick heat up times, and stable temperatures, with little overshoot. For full details, see: [[Tuning the bed.heater temperature control]]
[* black] This canEnsure the test is started with the heaters at room temperature. Ideally this should be done with no filament loaded. For most accurate results, set the printer turned off or on. It can be easier when powered off and you can easily move the X and Y axis by hand. Just make sure notpart cooling fan speed to move them too quickly.
[* black] Start by turning all four leveling screws so that
match normal print fan speeds. For the spring is compressedEnder 3 and the bed is farthest away from the nozzle.PLA that would be 75-100%
[* black] Now withNext send M303 H1 S210 to start the Z axis atheater tuning process for the lowest point of travel movehot end. Wait for the X axis all the wayprocess to complete. It should only take a few minutes. Save the left and the Y axisresults by sending M500 so that the bed is all the waythey are loaded automatically at startup.
[* black] If you followed
the front. The nozzleconfiguration guide, automatic loading of the config-override file should be atenabled. If you get an error message saying otherwise, add M501 to the back-left corner.end of config.g
[* black] TurnNext tune the leveling knob atbed heater by sending M303 H0 S60. Wait for the back-left corner untilprocess to complete, and once again, save the results by sending M500. Note that bed raisesheater may take considerably longer due to increased heat up and just touches the nozzle. You can use a piece of paper to judge this, or just your eyeballcool down time.
[* black] Now move to all 4 corners and doThe temperatures chosen reflect the same somost common temperatures used for printing PLA on the Ender 3. If you plan to print with other filaments that require hotter temperatures, you can re-tune with those. However, the nozzle is just touchingresults of the bedtuning at all 4 cornersthese lower temperatures will still be valid over a fairly wide range of temperatures.
[* black] Repeat this step a few times soAlso keep in mind that the tension onstock Ender 3 Pro has a PTFE tube in the paper underhot end which should not be exposed to temperatures above 240c due to the nozzle feels aboutfoul smell released. And the same soheated bed uses a magnetic surface which should not be exposed to temperatures above 80c due to the damage it can just start to slidecause the magnets.
[* black] This is justPID tuning should be redone whenever a first attempt at levelingmajor modification is done to the hot end or bed heater, such as installing or removing a silicone heater block sock, or changing the part cooling fan, or even if the ambient temperature of the room the printer is in changes from season to get it close enough to successfully finish calibrationseason.

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