https://docs.duet3d.com/

Introduction

The FlashForge Creator Pro is a good printer, but with a few issues:

  • Noisy stepper control
  • Part cooling fan is not variable
  • Gcode needs to be converted to .X3G which only few slicers can do and can not modify once converted.

Adding a Duet will add many features

  1. Duet 2 Maestro .  This is Ethernet only, WiFi access point could be used if you want wireless, or get a Duet 2 WiFi. You will need a Thermocouple daughter board if you are using the stock FFCP hotend.
    • Duet 2 Maestro . This is Ethernet only, WiFi access point could be used if you want wireless, or get a Duet 2 WiFi.

    • You will need a Thermocouple daughter board if you are using the stock FFCP hotend.

    • OR might be better to replace Thermocouple with thermistors, I am running into issues of stepper motor noise interfearing with Thermocouples, I am in the process of installing a shielded cable for Themocouples.

    • Full Graphic Smart 12864 display or PanelDue

    • 2.5mm hex bit, allen wrench or driver

    • Precision wire stripper, CP-301G Pro'sKit Precision Wire Stripper worked great!

    • A good Molex KK crimper, I had a cheap one and the crimps kept breaking, then I borrowed a good crimper tool from work and wow! what a difference!

  2. Before dissembling the FFCP, take notes of settings, on LCD and via FlashPrint's printer config. remove bottom cover https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PicgFMir... Take Photographs of wires.
    • Before dissembling the FFCP, take notes of settings, on LCD and via FlashPrint's printer config.

    • remove bottom cover https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PicgFMir...

    • Take Photographs of wires.

    • Label wires of what they go to.

  3. Connecting to duet:  1.) Getting Connected to your Duet Make a backup of files on Duet SD card then run the config tool https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/ in Chrome, it does not work in IE, Edge or Firefox. Because  setting changes every time  new firmware comes out , I won't post my settings here. It's a  good idea to run the web config tool  from your Duet Web page (clickable link shows by config.json) that will give you your config.g code but I still had to edit some things by hand like the heatbed PWM to 80%
    • Connecting to duet: 1.) Getting Connected to your Duet

    • Make a backup of files on Duet SD card then run the config tool https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/ in Chrome, it does not work in IE, Edge or Firefox.

    • Because setting changes every time new firmware comes out , I won't post my settings here. It's a good idea to run the web config tool from your Duet Web page (clickable link shows by config.json) that will give you your config.g code but I still had to edit some things by hand like the heatbed PWM to 80%

    • If you want dual hotends, you will need to Add Tool and set offset X.

  4. Sceenshots here are from Duet Firmware v2,  version 3 is different. Power supply: 24volt 13.33amps Build Volume X229 Y150 X150
    • Sceenshots here are from Duet Firmware v2, version 3 is different.

    • Power supply: 24volt 13.33amps

    • Build Volume X229 Y150 X150

    • Mechanical End stops = active low , 3 wires VCC, GND, Sense

    • Motors 1.8° rotation per step, Driver microstepping 16 step

    • X and Y stepper motors 800 amp max set to 700. Z stepper motors 400 amp max set to 300. ??? to be tested/confirm.

  5. I modified my printer, cutting off two stand offs,  to get board to sit lower.  but turns out that you need air flow on backside, and is  important. To be determined . . .   will daughter-board fit without cutting off stand offs?.... Position board so fan blows over the stepper drivers.  but also leave enough space to access the SD card and cable connections.
    • I modified my printer, cutting off two stand offs, to get board to sit lower. but turns out that you need air flow on backside, and is important.

    • To be determined . . . will daughter-board fit without cutting off stand offs?....

    • Position board so fan blows over the stepper drivers. but also leave enough space to access the SD card and cable connections.

    • it will be difficult to get to Ethernet port, connect a long one now and hope you don't need to change it later or you could add short wire and use a RJ45 splice connector

    • I will link to my design file here. TBD

  6. Do not try to control movements without stepper motors connected,  could burn out drivers.   See: How to destroy your Duet 2 FLASHFORGE X Y Stepper motor PN: 17HD4063-05N, Extruder motors E0 E1  PN: 42HB34F08AB-14
    • Do not try to control movements without stepper motors connected, could burn out drivers. See: How to destroy your Duet 2

    • FLASHFORGE X Y Stepper motor PN: 17HD4063-05N, Extruder motors E0 E1 PN: 42HB34F08AB-14

    • For the Creator Pro the X, Y, E0, E1 motor current should be 0.84a (840mA). For the Z motor it is 0.4a (400mA). (but set about 10% lower in config.g?)

    • Before crimping connectors on extruder stepper wires, twist the pairs of wires to reduce stepper motors magnetic interference. It does interfere with Themocoupler.

    • Stepper motors has 4 wires and works in pairs, I kept it in the same order as it was on FFCP, ORG/BLK/RED/YEL. If the motor runs backwards you can reverse one pair, either the ORG/BLK or RED/YEL. But I find it easier to reverse it in the config.g.

    • Note: stepper motors generate noise that can interfere with other components. Keep stepper motors wires separated from the rest. Twisting pairs also helps.

  7. Duet has 3 fan connections F0,  F1 and F2
    • Duet has 3 fan connections F0, F1 and F2

    • due to slicer limitations, F0 needs to be used as part cooling fan.

    • if you have two extruders heatbreak fans, use F1 and F2 , or you could tie two fans to F1 if you need F2 for something else.

    • Fan cooling Duet board should always be on, connect to .?.

  8. The hot end use K type thermocouples. https://electronics.stackexchange.com/qu...  and will need daughterboards to connect them.  See: Connecting thermocouples white wire goes into the left hand terminal, looking from the wire into the terminal block.
    • The hot end use K type thermocouples. https://electronics.stackexchange.com/qu... and will need daughterboards to connect them. See: Connecting thermocouples

    • white wire goes into the left hand terminal, looking from the wire into the terminal block.

    • Turn on the printer and check the web interface. Verify the current temperatures are about room temperature. As seen in photo you will see my heatbed is incorrect.

  9. Based on comments in the sailfish source, the thermistor in the HBP is a 100k resistor with a "B" of 4066 and R of 4700.  but was off and had to use Custom in config tool and enter two measured values, which gave me M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T99281 B3713
    • Based on comments in the sailfish source, the thermistor in the HBP is a 100k resistor with a "B" of 4066 and R of 4700. but was off and had to use Custom in config tool and enter two measured values, which gave me M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T99281 B3713

    • Two connectors on board, the heavier wire going to 2 pin connector is for Heater, Polarity does not matter here

    • The four pin connector is for Thermistor, only need to connect Pin 1 = Signal and Pin 2 = Ground (VSSA)

    • Power supply is 13.33 amps, and not enough with two hotends, consider PWM about 80%

    • M307 H0 B1 S0.80 ; Use bang-bang on bed heater with max 80 percent pwm

    • Other guides: Choosing and connecting a bed heater

  10. Connect FFCP end stops, 3 wires are needed, VCC, Ground and Sense.  I found wire colors differs on each end stop, so don't assume and verify and rearrange wires as needed.  Connector should have an arrow marking it as Pin1. Pin 1 = VCC
    • Connect FFCP end stops, 3 wires are needed, VCC, Ground and Sense. I found wire colors differs on each end stop, so don't assume and verify and rearrange wires as needed. Connector should have an arrow marking it as Pin1.

    • Pin 1 = VCC

    • Pin 2 & 3 = Ground

    • Pin 4 = Sense

    • There is an LED on end stop, they will light up when switch is closed.

    • you can test Endstops by just powering it by USB, (no LCD connected) see more about it here: Connecting endstop switches

  11. The IP address is automatically assigned to it by your router.   Find it by logging into your router and look at 'attached devices'.   It will be listed with the name you gave it in the config.g  >  M550 P"FFCP" OR if you have a display connected, it may show IP there. On web interface we have Dashboard where you can control movements and Console were we can send codes .   DO NOT CLICK 'HOME' buttons !  at this time.
    • The IP address is automatically assigned to it by your router. Find it by logging into your router and look at 'attached devices'. It will be listed with the name you gave it in the config.g > M550 P"FFCP" OR if you have a display connected, it may show IP there.

    • On web interface we have Dashboard where you can control movements and Console were we can send codes . DO NOT CLICK 'HOME' buttons ! at this time.

    • on Machine-Specific page, you can verify that the Endstops 0, 1 and 2 are working, go ahead and press an endstop and see if it shows it Triggered Yes when you do.

  12. So with all stepper motors and endstops connected, it is time to test motor direction.  FFCP  Origin 0, 0  is Front/Left but Home is with hotend Y to rear , X to right and Z is table up.
    • So with all stepper motors and endstops connected, it is time to test motor direction. FFCP Origin 0, 0 is Front/Left but Home is with hotend Y to rear , X to right and Z is table up.

    • On web interface we have Dashboard where you can control movements and send console commands DO NOT CLICK 'HOME' buttons ! at this time.

    • Using console send M18, this will turn motors off then Manually by hand slowly move everything X Y & Z to center.

    • Using console, send command G92 Z50 Y100 X100 and now try small movements <X-1 <Y-1 and <Z-0.5

    • clicking <X-1 it should move left (your Left). <Y-1 should be moving towards the front and <Z-0.5 should move table up.

    • If you need to reverse one, edit config.g , look for M569 codes.

  13. Be ready to turn power off on printer if for some reason it does not stop on following steps.
    • Be ready to turn power off on printer if for some reason it does not stop on following steps.

    • Move hotend to center again, either manually or Web Interface buttons, do not use HOME buttons yet.

    • Testing X, be ready to hit the endstop for the X with your finger, Click HOME X and press the endstop before it gets to endstop. It should stop, if not, turn power off!

    • Did it home towards the endstop? if not then verify line in config.g is M574 X2 Y2 Z1 S0 Otherwise the Home.g , Homex.g and Homey.g needs to be edited to reverse direction, but shouldn't need to.

    • do the same for Y and Z

  14. I am installing a Smart graphic controller 12864 LCD.          some clones the connector is upside down and have to either remove the shroud or cut a key on otherside so you can plug in 180. G4 P200 ? M918 P1 E4                        ; configure direct-connect display
    • I am installing a Smart graphic controller 12864 LCD. some clones the connector is upside down and have to either remove the shroud or cut a key on otherside so you can plug in 180.

    • G4 P200 ?

    • M918 P1 E4 ; configure direct-connect display

    • See guide: Connecting an LCD control panel

    • TBD

Finish Line

One other person completed this guide.

Attached Documents

Firefly

Member since: 11/14/2019

308 Reputation

1 Guide authored

0 Comments

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 0

Past 7 Days: 4

Past 30 Days: 42

All Time: 444